Fay Maschler reviews Bocca di Lupo At Home: Pivot to sunny Puglia saves the day in a wretched week
After twice visiting the new restaurant Kol masterminded by Santiago Lastra, who ran the Noma pop-up in Tulum on the Yucatán Peninsula in Mexico, I had a review oven-ready for this page. Then Boris Johnson slopes onto the telly on Saturday and restaurants are closed from tomorrow for at least the next

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