Maison François, London SW1: 'It could spark joy in the saddest heart' – restaurant review

The new all-day brasserie in Gallic theme near the Piccadilly Circus is House Franzois.

This sounds like fine news in a godforsaken universe – or at least does it to me because I see French brasserie all-day as one of the highlights of modern society.

You should pitch yourself up whenever you are, feeling stylish or dishevelled. It doesn't live through time limits or dress codes.

At eleven o'clock you should pick up a bourgundy pichet and the workers can handle you as though you were Brigitte Bardot in 1973.

The menu is typically big, sometimes flappy, laminated with celery rework, four fatty spud styles and a good paris brest.

I wish you might have made more brasseries in the Habs 1 textbook than in their arduous babyfoot table football passages and sound and light.

Opening some kind of restaurant in central London now involves sticking your head in a lion 's cage and thinking that it will only shift the boundaries.

Matthew Ryle, an ex-MasterChef 2018-finalist, is a chef with Dorchestra schooling and then works at Isabel; the manager is the affable François O'Neill of Brompton Bar & Grill, and a fairly clever Ed Wyand, previously Scott's and then Claptons Verden, is at home.

"I have warm memories of the chocolate of Maison François with anchovy, breadcrumbs and pickles."

Both these restaurants in the Maison François are in reality traces.

There is a wine selection of 250 vineyards, a service in the entire is well-boiled and observant and the Frank's basement bar is too poor in quality, I've been in two minds to inform everyone that I got the selection pencillated to get into complete Antoinette and chill in the present troubles with a glass of white burgundy, a 32-month-old plate of region, some radii and a bowl of brain canut.

Sausage and pasta from Toulouse at Maison François, London SW1.

Photograph: The Guardian Karen Robinson

Or maybe I'm only going to lurk in the corners of the restaurant to the end of the strategy for washing sheets, which are full of cake, tarte, canelés and macaroons, with their multi-drawing pudding trolley.

This is a trick that might ignite joy in the saddest heart.

I mean, come on: you get some kind of always giving box of sweets, full of freshly madeleines, rum baba and frangipane, all baked in-house .. I mean, come on:

You can not not smile stupidly.

This is the key function, after all, of the restaurant right now: fleeting and powerful moments of little wonder, yet welcome at duration.

For the good three minutes, as Maison François rolled the trolley up to me and my buddy Courtney, we swaps for six and a half day gazing at the news stories and threw the heads behind and chuckled.

Paris-Brest Home of François: Karen Robinson / The Guardian

So, quick, long story: Maison Francois, if you brave the West End, is a nice scream!

The food is generously, memorably flavored, and oil-, butter- or garlic-drenched.

A modest flatbread, resting inconspicuously at the top of the menu, appears laden with melted taleggio, wilted spinach and soft potato.

I picture a soft cod dish, nice, with anchor sauce and crumbs and chilli in similar warm memories.

In their own wooden pot came a thick, porkey, home-made piece of paté in croute rooms, with cropped cornichons.

There were two styles of pasta: a wildly decadent, sunset-yellow ravioli du dauphin filled with comte, and new strozzapreti paired half and half with a ragout of Toulouse sausage and chanterelles.

The flatbroad 'Maison François' is charged with melting taleggio, spinach and potatoes.'

Photograph: The Guardian Karen Robinson

The menu contains intercôte de boeuf, chicken rôti and moutarde pork and also john dory, but we nibbled along the vegetables end of the chart.

Soft leek vinaigrette came with a clean bottarga jackette and croutons so that nobody will want to spray calories and a section of dark, shiny, multi-layered boulangère apples architecturally spectacular.

Many, many times and never request the same item twice will be appropriate here.

You may sit with mates on tiny plates or have three courses in a comprehensive old school.

Well, in the course of some dishes whiskey you across Alsace, from Lyon to Paris, but also there's a new, forward-looking feeling with red mullet with a fennel on a punchy sauce, bouillabaisse-style, and Instagram-friendly Ouef en Gellee.

Finally, the pleasure of a chocolate trolley named Maison François.

Photograph: The Guardian Karen Robinson

You can eat them when the stereo is played by Earth Wind & Fire and Bobby Caldwell that makes you half-convinced, that though life is really pretty waste right now, there is a cream-colored corner banquette in St Jacques – not too far from Fortnum & Mason, so you can have a shufti in advance in the stationery shop.

Tues-Sat available at midday-10pm.

Head about £40, including beverages and support